Video: Tim W's affordaplane.

On Turkey day I went and saw Tim W's plane. I also took a little video. I was at the wrong end of the field, but he did get the plane airborne a couple times. It was a little windy, so I don't blame him for not flying the pattern. Enjoy!

Click here: Tim's Affordaplane

Wing Building: Roger is at it again - How he makes aluminum ribs.

Well Roger did it again. He went ahead and detailed how he built the aluminum ribs for his plane. The process seems very similar to how the hummelbird people do it, and given the success of that plane, that's nothing but a compliment.

I'll annotate the pictures he posted, but here's his letter to the group:

"I'm back by request of one or two interested people on how I made my wing ribs. I posted a few photos again on cheapaircraft2 - Rogers (Kenneth formally Jims)photos.

It really is easy to make them this way. They are attached with rivits. That part goes fast. I put a wide cap strip on either end. To cut them out, You lock the piece up between the forms with bolts, The thin one on top to hold it down tight and the thick one on the bottom to guide the router. You need to make sure the bolt head on the top is flush or below the surface of the jig so the router can pass over it without dragging. I used toilet flange bolts because they have a flat head.

For the holes, you simply plunge the bit through the middle of the hole some where and cut it out fast and easy. Then cut around the outside. In less than a minute it is done. It takes more time to put it in the form than to cut it by far.

Next you lock it in the bending form and tap it over with a mallet. remember to make half each direction. The outside ribs do not have the lighting holes cut out. When you take them out of the form they will bend because of the curve of the air foil. You will have to flute them about every 2 inches to straighten them. I made a fluting tool out of a pair of vice gripes with a rod welded in the middle of one jaw and two on the outsides of the other by passing outside of the other to bend the aluminum to a controlled amount by adjusting the vice gripe closing screw. You then have to flange the holes to stiffen them. that is also quick with the home made flangers. With that you are finished. If your bit is sharp and cutting well which is normally not a problem, you will not even need to deburr the edges.

I made the aileron ribs the same way. It was quick and easy also. If this doesn't make sense shoot me a message and I will try to explain it better.

Warning, do not try to cut more that one at a time or you will have that many pieces welded together. I speak from experience.
Good luck and keep building. Roger."

How about lets follow along in pictures. First, he made his ribs from aluminum flashing from the hardware store. It typically comes in a 2' by 50' roll.

Step one is to make some cutting guides. You should make four without holes in them for the end ribs.

You can see the bolt holes in them, that you use for locking the aluminum in between the cutting guides. After you cut out each rib, you'll then need to fold the edges over. This provides a wide attachment point for the fabric, and prevents a sharp aluminum edge from slicing open your wing from the inside. These forms get banged on quite heavily, so they're made of much thicker material than the cutting guides. You'll want to make sure you make "left" and "right" sided ones. Which you decide is which doesn't matter, so long as you mirror the left and right sides.

Now the bit you folded over is longer than the outer surface of the airfoil. Which means you now have a pleasantly pringle shaped rib. On some planes they have cuts in the flange to do this, But seeing how those lead to more sharp edges I think the following method is better.

To straighten them out, you'll need to crimp, or flute, the flange you folded over. The flutes will take up the excess metal, without leaving sharp edges. An easy way to make a fluting tool, is to weld two pieces of welding wire to the top jaw of a pair of vice grips, then weld a single wire to the bottom jaw. It will take you a few attempts, but you should be able to figure out a pattern which leaves you with a very, very straight rib.

Also to improve the stiffness of the ribs, the cutout holes should also be flanged. That's best done using some blocks of wood that have been routed out. These are then pressed together over the opening in the ribs. Here's a couple pictures of the tooling that Roger made:

And here's a grandkid using the tooling:

Isn't it nice to call it tooling? It sounds so professional.

He also used the same techniques to build his ailerons.

Not bad eh?

Tim W's Affordaplane.

Hey everyone, this morning I visited Tim W at the airfield. The weather concerned me on the way out. It was a little windy, a bit hazy, and the clouds were quite low. When I got to the airfield, he took me on a tour of his plane, and the build decisions he made.

Welcome to my first impression of the airfield... :-) Poor plane.

My first impression of Tim's plane however, was very good, and it stayed that way. His modification list is quite extensive. The winds were a bit high, so Tim kept his flying to a couple of quick runs down the runway.

Performance wise, with his MZ201 powered Affordaplane, is a mixed bag. The planes level maximum airspeed is in the 65mph range. However the climb performance is disappointing.

Hi Tims plane.

So, what all did tim do? He tried to make the plane easily disassembled. He did something similar to Gent's tail, where the horizontal stablizer can fold. ... except the control horns interfere with the rudder. On the bright side, having a hinge means you can use the pins as a quick removal tool. The main and TE spar are also held on with pins.

The tail originally just had single bracing wires, but Tim saw the leading edge dancing during flight, and he decided they needed some more bracing. While we're on the subject of flying surfaces, he also sealed the elevator and alerion gaps.

I really liked the landing gear. It's fiberglass rod, and beyond providing some shock absorption they are lighter than the per plans landing gear. They also fail progressively on a hard landing. (Tim's turning out to be a good test pilot.) Due to the way they are attached, they are easily replaced.

While we're looking at Tim's planes legs, I'll note that he did not use the solid aluminum round bar to transfer strut load from one side of the plane to the other. He used some flat 2024 plate. You can also see he doubled up the bottom tube. The stock gear were hard enough on the frame to bend it.

The MZ201 he's running is the planes second engine. It was originally on a Kawasaki with a reduction drive. His engine mount is 2" longer than per plans. Despite that, he has 20oz of lead on the tailskid.

I like the prop.

He also ran all cables for the control surfaces. I'm not sure I'd make the same choice, but I have the whole r/c plane thing going for me. But look at those beautiful belcranks. The cables also facilitated the folding tail.

Thank you Tim for letting me look at, and show off your plane.

Rogers Affordaplane

Roger completed his plane in the last few days. He built a fiberglass fuel tank, that fits in place of the wing seal. He also made his using aluminum ribs.

He tells the story best, Roger wrote:
"I made quite a few changes to the plane and did not
want to talk about them until the thing flew. It will now be until spring
because of the cold weather. Some of the things I changed are; gap seal fuel
tank, droop tip wings, wing ribs made from sheat aluminum, US 35b wing foil. I
uses a 400cc polaris snowmobile engine which should put out about 40 hp as
arranged. I also made my own prop with ptips. It pulls very well. It weighed in
an 72 lbs. Many of the changes I made did reduce the weight. The finished wings
without droop tips weighted 27.5 lbs the tips were about 4.5 lbs each. The gap
seal tank serves two purposes of tank and most of the gap seal. I also went with
Y struts to make it easier to get in and out. I will try to post pictures when I
can figure out how to do that. There are some pictures on cheapaircraft 2 under
kenneths and under Rogers. They were posted by my son. I put it in our county
fair in Aug. and won a sweepstakes with it. I also took it to our local flyin
and did a bit of taxi work. It handled better than I had expected on the ground.
I also got a little experience in a two seater but it was a trike gear. I need
tail dragger experience and that a a bit harder to come up with here. I do not
know the final weight but I believe it will be under 300. I learned a few things
along the way like fiberglass tanks do not hold up to ethanol fuel. I had to
coat the inside of the tank. I would like to find plain gas but can't find any
here locally. I spent less than $2,500 out of pocket but I am a really good
scrounger. If you want any more information please contact me direct and I can
give you more info. Keep building. Roger"

"I was very careful to check out weights of all the changes I made
and everyone except putting very large tires on were under or at the weight that
the plans would have been. and the wheels were lighter than wheel borrow so that
would have been close to a wash. I wanted large tires to make up for no
suppension. The sheet aluminum ribs were almost half the weight of doing the
foam ones. I made one out of foam to compare. It took me about 20 minutes per
rib to make them but the time is in making the jigs. once set up they are almost
fun to make and turn out exactly the same every time"

That's a darned good looking plane. I can't wait till spring when we can get some flight reports about it!

Some new information from the horses mouth:
"I do not know the weight of everyone elses wing, but mine did come in with fabric and paint at 27.5 and 27.8. One wing was a bit heavier because I ran out of 1.8 ounce fabric and finished that wing with a bit of 2.7 ounce cloth which I had on hand. I did install droop tips which weighed about 4.5 lbs each The material is siding coil which comes in 2' x 50' rolls."

Built and flying Affordaplanes

So, here's an incomplete list of who's flying Affordaplanes.

1. The original.

2. Gents big silver affordaplane